On case sizes

One of the most significant differences between modern and vintage watches is the case diameter. Modern watch collectors who are making the transition to collecting vintage often struggle with finding a watch they feel comfortable and confident wearing. Regrettably, what I often see is collectors being dismissive of watches purely from the diameter on paper, without actually experiencing them in hand or trying them on.

This is a shame, because I sincerely feel there is a lot to be gained by keeping an open mind when it comes to watch design and size. In fact, there are many factors that contribute to how a watch wears beyond the case size - case material, lug shape, lug width, presence of a bracelet, and the list goes on. It is the combination of all these elements that really determines how the watch will look on the wrist.

A 1930’s Tavannes watch with “crab” lugs and a stepped bezel. Case diameter: 31.5 mm. Lug width: 17 mm.

The Tavannes above is a prime example of how a watch might wear significantly larger than the stated case diameter. With the pronounced and thick lugs that protrude sideways, relatively wide 17 mm lug width, and the monotone colour scheme, the watch feels more like a 33 mm piece rather than the 31.5 mm it actually is. On top of that, because the watch has such an unconventional design, the smaller diameter on paper helps to tone it down. If the case were made of gold, I think it could even benefit from being another millimetre smaller.

A 1950’s Patek Philippe ref. 2457, retailed by Keltz-Bloch. Case diameter: 33 mm. Lug width: 18 mm.

I personally tend to prefer wide lug widths relative to the case diameter, and it is precisely why I feel some iconic watches like the Patek Philippe ref. 96 and ref. 2457 are so well designed (31 mm case diameter with the relatively wide 18 mm lug width). On the other side of the spectrum might be another widely collected watch - the Longines ref. 2326 - which features a 33 mm case diameter with a relatively narrow 15 mm lug width. To me, on the wrist, these two watches feel like the same size despite there being a 2 mm case diameter difference.

A 1930’s Longines ref. 2326, with an extremely rare black crosshair sector dial. Case diameter: 33 mm. Lug width: 15 mm.

So try them on! Considering possible case material differences, you might even find that the 31 mm watch wears larger than the 33 mm one. Keeping an open mind when it comes to case diameter will open many doors to incredible dial and case designs.