Patek Philippe ref. 2457 “Keltz-Bloch”
Patek Philippe’s reference 96 is almost synonymous with the word wristwatch - it is probably the exact image and silhouette people imagine when asked to picture a wristwatch. This basic Calatrava is simple and pure, and it is easy to understand why it was in production for so long. Several other references inherited the design language; most notably, the reference 2457 is basically a centre-seconds version of the 96 with a 27SC movement. The case is essentially identical, except that the 2457 has a slightly more domed back.
One can find many special variants of the Calatrava, such as those with Breguet numerals or multi-tone sector dials. While the 2457 under the loupe today has a typical dial with applied indices, it is made special by several features.
Patek Philippe ref. 2457, Fab Suisse dial.
Patek Philippe ref. 2457, Keltz-Bloch curved retailer signature.
The rare “Fab Suisse” signature at 6 o’clock indicates that the watch was produced for the French market. What’s interesting is that this watch features a remarkably German-sounding retailer double signature - “Keltz-Bloch” - despite having “Fab Suisse” on the dial and French hallmarks on the case. This is because this retailer was located in Strasbourg, which borders Germany and was historically a German-speaking city. The “Keltz-Bloch” retailer signature is among the rarest double-signatures on vintage Patek Philippe watches, and the arched text makes it extra special.
Patek Philippe ref. 2457, retailed by Keltz-Bloch, under the Tokyo sun.
But what really sets this apart is the dial patina, which is among the most incredible I have ever seen, best described as a mixture of baby powdery yellow and pink. It is a beautiful shade of colour that is similar to that of the highly sought after “Dore” dial found in Patek Philippe references 3940 and 3970. In fact, having owned a 3940 “Dore”, I personally preferred the warmth on the dial on this 2457.
Condition is of utmost importance in collecting vintage. However, this watch from 1954 proves that beautiful patina and colour, patiently and slowly bestowed by time, can often far surpass anything that could be intentionally conceived.
Set of four watches from Le Coultre and Patek Philippe, with different degrees of dial patina.
This is what makes collecting anything vintage so fascinating, as there is much more to it than a spectrum of condition. While “new-old-stock” examples are captivating in their own ways, there is beauty in experiencing something magical only time can create. I sometimes regret letting go of this 2457, but find comfort in owning several watches with similar patina, such as the Le Coultre ref. 2726 above (the example on the left).