Collecting by themes

There are many approaches to collecting watches. Some collectors are obsessed with a particular brand, while others like to collect their favourite complication. I have also seen people approach collecting like checking off lists - buying one watch from each category such as tank-shaped watch, calendar, chronograph, and so on.

I am not particularly loyal to any one brand or complication, but I enjoy collecting watches by themes. So, when I find a watch I really like, I tend to buy more which share the same theme. One downside to this is that there are truly many ways to define a “theme”, and so collectors collecting this way inevitably turn into hoarders.

A quartet of tank wristwatches in stainless steel clamshell cases. Each one has a different dial colour.

A basic example of collecting by theme would be collecting an iconic case. Above, we see four examples of wristwatches with stainless steel waterproof clamshell tank case. Each one has a different dial colour, and each example is a different expression of the same silhouette and design. It is exciting to observe - side by side - how different dial layouts and designs fit into a particular case. I have also personally found this to be a good way to be more certain of my tastes.

A more involved theme could be a very particular dial layout or design. Below, we see a pair of early Rolex oysters with the iconic black “majestic” gilt dial - a rare dial layout seldom used by other brands but famously employed by Rolex. When the pair are together, greater attention and appreciation can be placed on the dial, which enables closer study into its specific details.

A pair of early Rolex oysters with black gilt “majestic” dials.

Another example of collecting by dial design is shown below - three stainless steel chronograph wristwatches with black gilt sector dials. All three of these are no longer with me, but I was very glad that the Leonidas and Heuer could stay as a pair when a discerning collector took both at the same time (and the fact they would stay together is a big part of the reason why I was willing to let them go).

Three chronograph wristwatches with gilt black sector dials. Now all sold. Thankfully, the Leonidas and the Heuer went to the same discerning collector.

Collecting by overall colour is another option, though I seldom go down this route. I was very fortunate to find a pair of pink-on-pink ladies vintage Patek Philippes in stunning condition, with extremely rare and beautiful dial layouts. Both have been gifted to my mother, though she seldom wears them to preserve the beautiful condition. As the current owner, she fully agrees that it’s certainly great to have one, but the pair really shine when they are together.

My recent fascination has been with two-tone dials that switch tones depending on the light. I think you can expect to see some interesting pieces discussed in the near future.

A pair of ladies vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches with “pink-on-pink” configuration.

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