Deep Dive: The Ultimate Doxa
Watch collectors typically have certain affinities towards specific features - whether that be a design element on the dial or a specific case silhouette. As collecting progresses, such attraction eventually develops into coherent themes that define our collections. I personally have always had a soft spot for sector dial chronographs - so much so that I have a watch box dedicated entirely to a collection of these. Chronographs are tools foremost, and I believe the sector layout enhances this function greatly, while also adding balance and beauty to the dial.
I am always on the hunt for sector dial chronographs - especially those with gilt dials. When I first saw this Doxa chronograph, I knew I had to have it in my collection. If I ever imagined building an ideal watch from scratch, putting in all of the features I could possibly want, I think it would look incredibly similar to this Doxa. In some ways, I am not sure if I could design one better even if given the opportunity and a blank canvas.
The ultimate Doxa Spillman chronograph, tropical sector dial.
This watch almost feels like an exercise of listing heavy hitter keywords - sector dial, tropical dial, glossy dial, unpolished Spillman case, leaf hands, two-tone script, mirror track, snail scale, and the list could go on. In person it is truly awe-inspiring especially because there are so many elements on the dial that play with the light, each giving a great deal of dimensionality that is difficult to convey with photographs. The sector track being in a mirror finish is especially impressive, providing a much needed contrast against the glossy tropical dial.
The Doxa chronograph, shown on a bespoke light brown suede strap.
As soon as I took delivery of the watch, I had a bespoke brown suede strap made for it. Retrospectively, I think I should have requested the stitching to be done in white, to play off the white gilt script used for the scales on the dial. I think the watch will look equally fantastic on a bracelet, though finding a nice, original, and open-ended 19 mm bracelet can be challenging (if anyone has one, please do let me know!). With so much going on in the dial, the strap or bracelet will inevitably play the role of a background, and I feel this gives much freedom into choosing how to pair this watch.
Another shot of the Doxa chronograph, shown on a bespoke light brown suede strap.
The sheer variety of dial layouts that were created for the Valjoux 22 caliber is incredible. There seems to be something for everyone, from the simplest dials with just Arabic numerals to those with the most intricate multi-scales and sector divisions. I may be biased, but would have to rank this Doxa dial among the very best, both in terms of rarity and quality. The even tropicalisation is the cherry on top, exemplifying the charm of collecting vintage - this dial layout is extremely rare, but this patina most certainly makes this particular dial unique.
The Doxa chronograph, shown on a bespoke light brown suede strap. In the background is another Spillman-cased chronograph, by Marvin.